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LIFE IN FUERTEVENTURA
Criadas: the truffles of Fuerteventura
Feb
Fuerteventura is an island where the fields easily turn green after just a few days of rain. During the spring days, when the earth still gives off that characteristic and penetrating smell of humidity, many majoreros go out to the field to look for the precious “criadas”.
If you do not live in Fuerteventura, or you are not familiar with the Spanish spoken here, perhaps, when reading the word “maid”, you do not know what we are referring to, nor what is special about them.
In Fuerteventura, the white desert truffles that grow wild by the jables are called “criadas”.
Truffles are those mushrooms that lovers of Gourmet cuisine love so much. There are many types of truffles, but only a few are of gastronomic interest. The black truffles of the tuber variety (tuber melanosporum) are the most sought-after in the market, and, of course, the best known to all. They reach exorbitant values. Its price fluctuates a lot, depending on the year, reaching € 6,000 per kilo.
The truffles that grow in Fuerteventura are from another kind of fungus. They belong to the Terfezias, their price in the market is around € 50 per kilo. But, not for that reason they are less appreciated by chefs and lovers of good cuisine.
Black truffles are mainly used to flavor foods, while terphezias have little odor, and are eaten like any other fungus or tuber. Its flavor is smooth and pleasant, similar to hazelnut. They contain significant amounts of protein and antioxidants.
What is the truffle?
The truffle is a hypogeal fungus that grows underground. It is the product of the symbiosis between the mycelium of the fungus and the roots of a superior plant.
The mycelium of the fungus surrounds the finest roots of the plant, forming a bulky structure. Once the balance between the plant and the fungus is achieved, the truffle production begins. When they reach maturity they give off a characteristic aroma.
Although, to track some varieties of truffles, it is typical to use dogs, and even pigs, for the truffles that are grown in Fuerteventura, knowledge of the field and experience is more effective.
What varieties of truffles are there in Fuerteventura?
In Fuerteventura there are 3 varieties of terphezias. Despite their differences, on the island, they are called interchangeably criadas, turmas, criadillas, criadillas de tierra or brood potato.
These edible mushrooms have a diameter of between 2 and 10 cm, although much larger specimens can be found. Its flesh has a reticulated pinkish whitish coloration, ¬originated by the presence of a large number of veins.
This shrubby plant does not exceed 30 cm in height and can reach little more than 50 cm in extension. It is characterized by being a highly branched plant with a woody base, with ascending stems. It is easy to recognize it, above all, by its characteristic yellow flower, whose sensitive petals fall when touched.
Truffles are also found in the roots of estillejos (Helianthemum villosum and Helianthemum ledifolium). But if we are able to locate the turmbers it will be more than enough
The smallest terphezias and those that stand out the most on the ground are buried at a shallow depth. While the large truffles tend to be more inland. So, if we come across the small ones, the more easily we will find the big ones.
The unmistakable sign that there are truffles under a turmeric is thanks to the cracks that form in the ground when the tenderloins grow. This is a very subtle cracking. It looks like a miniature earth eruption.
Since when have truffles been eaten in Fuerteventura?
The tradition of collecting truffles in Fuerteventura is ancient. Possibly the Mahos aborigines already ate truffles, in late winter and early spring, when food is often scarce. Let’s not forget that the mahos arrived, around the first century of our era, from North Africa, and there, this food has been eaten for millennia.
Furthermore, as a historical curiosity, we can add that truffles most likely had, in some way, a connection with the sacred in aboriginal culture. Truffle maturity occurs around the spring equinox, and one of the places where the most “criadas” are found, in all of Fuerteventura, is the surroundings of the sacred mountain of Tindaya
When is the best time to take criadas in Fuerteventura?
The most appropriate time to collect criadas is between March and April, early spring. If the autumn and winter rains have been generous, the amount of baby potatoes that can be found will be very good and their size as well.
At what time of the day is it better to go pick baby potatoes?
Experienced people have two special times a day to pick up criadas. Very early in the morning, almost before sunrise, or just or at sunset. At those times of the day, the sunlight is almost flat, and hits the ground in a particular way, making the “scolding” notice a little more.
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